ARON CAVOJ for Dolce & Gabbana / fall 2020 Milano
2020/01/21
In 2009 Dolce & Gabbana became the first house to put “bloggers” (how quaint that word sounds now) in its front row—and even provided them with laptops. Then in 2015 the house invited a new wave of Insta/YouTube influencers led by Cameron Dallas. Today the dog-year clock of digital influence chimed again as Dolce & Gabbana threw open its doors to a house dressed bunch of wide-eyed and good-spirited Tik Tokers, many of whom were barely out of diapers when the first wave of bloggers (now well-established industry veterans) landed on Viale Piave. After this show, which was closed by a guy in a full look of tufted white knitwear who carried a beautiful little lamb from a farm just outside town, I asked some of these fresh arrivals how they’d liked their first ever show. “It was amazing!” came the answer in unison. And could this ancient, analogue form of fashion presentation translate to their hot-right-now platform? “Definitely!” Awww: they were nearly as cute as that lamb. @aroncavoj
DAVID TRULIK for Dolce & Gabbana / fall 2020 Milano
2020/01/21
In 2009 Dolce & Gabbana became the first house to put “bloggers” (how quaint that word sounds now) in its front row—and even provided them with laptops. Then in 2015 the house invited a new wave of Insta/YouTube influencers led by Cameron Dallas. Today the dog-year clock of digital influence chimed again as Dolce & Gabbana threw open its doors to a house dressed bunch of wide-eyed and good-spirited Tik Tokers, many of whom were barely out of diapers when the first wave of bloggers (now well-established industry veterans) landed on Viale Piave. After this show, which was closed by a guy in a full look of tufted white knitwear who carried a beautiful little lamb from a farm just outside town, I asked some of these fresh arrivals how they’d liked their first ever show. “It was amazing!” came the answer in unison. And could this ancient, analogue form of fashion presentation translate to their hot-right-now platform? “Definitely!” Awww: they were nearly as cute as that lamb. @davidtrulik
HAMUDI for Acne Studio / fw 2020 Paris
2020/01/21
So the good news is that on the evidence of this highly original Acne menswear collection, clothes design is not a human profession under threat from from AI anytime soon. The schtick was this: Jonny Johansson showed simultaneous Fall 2020 women’s and menswear collections in a room beneath the Louvre. Although both collections were in the same space, a big white wall split the runway so the genders were divided. My esteemed colleague and Louvre expert Amy Verner watched from the women’s side while I watched the men’s. Before the show(s), we did at least get the chance to gang up on Johansson and grill him on what seemed initially a pretentious gimmick as we ate all his backstage fruit. He explained that really, these shows are not the end product of the season, but mid-stage in a process that will see them combined in some project at a later stage. The genders had been divided for reasons not entirely clear but Johansson spoke ominously about a sense of shift on the horizon and an instinct to anticipate it somehow. He said: “We don’t know what’s coming next, we just know that something is coming.” @hamudihassuneh
David Trulik for Emporio Armani / fw 2020 Milan
2020/01/11
Giorgio Armani was born in bucolic Piacenza, but it is in hard-working Milan that he has built his empire and home. A self-confessed homebody, this week he gave an interesting interview to his hometown fashion editor—the redoubtable Paola Pollo of Corriere della Sera—in which he said that, at 85, one of his fears is how “to disappear without damaging my work, the name I built, and those who helped and built it with me.” This he told Pollo is something he thinks about when he goes to sleep and when he rises. He also says “I don’t control very much these days” (a statement Pollo rightly calls out as dubious); makes an arch point about Bernard Arnault’s reported interest in acquiring AC Milan; and adds: “And this is my life. Exclusively for work. I don’t go out in the evening. I missed many opportunities… but I prefer that the things I do are what speak for me.”
HAMUDI for Dsquared2 / fw2020 Milan
2020/01/11
Before they founded their label 25 years ago, Dean and Dan Caten waited on tables, did a part-time course at Parsons, freelanced for a Canadian store named Sublime, and then caught a break working for the then owner of Ports International, Luke Tanabe. Tonight these eternally puckish and utterly irrepressible twins presented an anniversary show that reminded us of where they’ve been and where they’ve got to. The collection rolled out and seemed to pay homage to landmarks past. Was an oversize knit blanket coat a nod to Campbell’s first look at that fall 2003 airplane show? Surely we had seen Dsquared2 do Western womenswear for the very first time (for them, at least) back in Madonna’s video for “Don’t Tell Me”? Even for the non-Dean-and-Dan completist in the hangar there was plenty for everyone to chew on. The vibe was hot pioneer vintage, and the silhouette was narrow at the bottom (tight kicked pants and jeans for men, bare legs for women topped by under-butt skirts) and volumized above (Western jackets, fake-fur fringed herringbone overcoats, a great waxed horseman’s long coat).
Damian Galkowski for COMODO / campaign fw19
2020/01/09
Comodo Korea celebrates the commuter with its fall-winter 2019 campaign. Models Damian Gałkowski and Guillaume D. come together in smart, versatile styles for the season. Embracing a contemporary cool, Damian and Guillaume model a wardrobe with several hero pieces for the stylish week. Comodo’s lineup includes everything from long trench coats and houndstooth knit sweaters to pleated trousers. A color palette of autumnal hues reinforces a timeless quality.