Anatol for Andrea Incontri Men's RTW Fall 2016
A traditional men’s wear wardrobe injected with an edgy attitude — that is the menu Andrea Incontri served for fall. Soft leather was cut into clean elegant jackets and coats were matched with pleated pants and quilted shirts for a sporty touch. Coats crafted from classic Loden wool had rigorous silhouettes, while the suits were slim yet relaxed. The designer also created covetable knits, including mélange sweaters. CAPTURE BY. www.adrianorusso.com
New Face VLAD * Opened the Lucio Vanotti Menswear Fall Winter 2016 Milan
The courage not to bend to the market rules, strongly pursuing personal research, has definitely rewarded LucioVanotti, who was chosen by Giorgio Armani to debut in his theatre, giving proof of expressive and aesthetic growth. His models are imaginary soldiers who, after the end of the world war, have taken shelter in pillboxes on the English Channel, representing both spirituality and beauty. His research is aimed at the essence, dressing men who are looking for the meaning of life and things, through the research of outfits. Hence the necessity to purify and subtract, to recreate separation and introspection. His work, as Lucio himself likes to describe as “relaxed strictness,” is inspired by intellectuals from the past such as Johannes Itten, master of the studies of color in the Bauhaus school. The items become archetypes of themselves: the military blankets turn into tunics, the pinstriped tracksuits are as soft as pajamas, and outerwear pieces are treated as night-gowns. Fabrics are soft and slippery, such as woolen cloth, comfort wool, corduroy, cotton, and fleece in the dusty colors of the desert: ocher, black, ecru, military green, with touches of sage green and navy. The tailor manufacturing recalls the idea of the military uniforms, functional and modular; the lines have a raw purity, highlighted by pinstriped suits as well as the other patterns – a kind of palette that could also be interpreted as an homage to master Giorgio Armani, who LucioVanotti himself has thanked through an amusing projection at the end of the show.
Tommy Marr for Stampd Collaborates with Monkey Time on Military-Inspired Collection
Los Angeles-based fashion brand Stampd collaborates with Japanese retailer Monkey Time on a new collection of military-inspired apparel. Known for his inviting spin on west coast streetwear, designer Chris Stamp entitles the collection A Militant Coast. Under this theme, the brand’s versatile staples are reinterpreted with a contemporary military style. The range includes plenty of must-haves with a selection of double stacked hoodies, relaxed button-downs, adjustable strapped chinos, bomber jackets and more pieces coming together.
New Face* FILIP MILER - first show - Federico Curradi
Federico Curradi has chosen his native city, Florence, to debut with his first men's collection. Protagonist of the presentation is a performance made of contrasts between pollution and nature, industry and craftsmanship, corrumption and ethics. And it happens going through a sort of day after in which models wear garments casually. picking up what they find after a disaster. "A different way to tell my luxury outside of the box," explained the designer.